to sihunoukville. I've been advised to watch my back because there's a
lot of ghouls around here.
Now one of the things about me is I've only actually been more than
knee deep in the sea like 3 times in my life. Like maybe once or twice
when I was a nipper and one time in Cornwall where it was so cold I
couldn't breath and had to get straight out.
So I'm on the southcoast of Cambodia and the sea here is like at least
twice as hot as the shower in my shithole of a room.
So I'm getting right into the sea.
I've had a few goes at it now in a couple of different places and to
be honest just being up to my neck in the water like that was one of
the greatist feelings of freedom I've ever expirenced.
I even did a bit of breast-stroke and learned to float.
The third time I was in the sea was the most memorable. I asked a
motodot to take me to "the best beach" and he dropped me off by a
stretch of long White sandy coast with out another person in sight. He
said he'd come back for me in 2 hours and that I can swim here.
I stripped down to my pants, (having not planed well enough to bring
swimming kit). Partically buried my clothes benith a bench and pulled
my now raw and sunburnt body into the warm and welcoming embrace of
There in I floated.
Starfished across the waters surface looking up into the endless
Pure unrestricted beauty.
I lay floating on my back within that powerful sea.
It's gentle currents determined my direction.
My eyes became closed.
My mind became quite.
In that one beautiful moment nothing mattered,
As I lay there alone I understood. I saw how everything was conected.
I visualised all the people I've left behind, all the people I've
lost, all the people I love and all the people I have yet to meet.
We were all together there in that moment. We were all part of the
same thing. We were one.
We were together.
Overwhelmed by the beauty of existance I cried. My salty tears running
from my face into the salty water around me.
I felt truly privaledged to be alive and greatful for all the other
lives that mine had touched.
Floating on an ocean of tears, alone but surounded by visions of
everyone I've ever loved. Insignificant and thankful.
And for maybe the first time in my life, i was truley at peace.
Although being in that happy-sad moment of sublime tranquillity left
me slighty off gard for what happend next.
"HEY YOU MISTA, YOU NO PAY ME!"
As I crashed back into the physical rehlm my eyes opened to the sight
of a uniformed Khmer man shouting, "Police, Police" into a walkie-
Turns out the Moto who'd dropped me had neglected to tell me it was a
private beach no doubt owned by someone not to be fucked with.
So basicly there was about 5 minutes of his sandpaper like hands
unsucsessfully trying to grip my raw, squirming sholders as I
scrambled around nigh on naked benieth various benches trying to find
where I'd buried my belongings.
We then got involved in a bit of running slap grabbing as I attempted
to dress and escape at the same time.
Sheding skin like lizard tails everytime his gravelly fingers almost
got a purchase on my torso.
It ended with me pushing a $10 bill and a handfull of Rhl into his
face and then legging it through the back entrance of a resturant and
out onto the street.
Wet, raw and sand infested I sat for twenty minutes on an
uncomfortable bench waiting for my driver to return.
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